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Air Conditioning Removal
Whether your air conditioner is no longer functioning or
you want to drop extra weight from your car, there
comes a time when you may consider removing the air
conditioning system. Pictured are the main components
of the air conditioning system that will be removed.
Removal of these items is relatively easy, and for those
concerned, disconnecting the electrical connector from
the compressor will not create a engine code (87-93).
The following components are:
In removing the AC Compressor, you will need to find a way to re-route the engine accessory belt and it may be necessary
to purchase a new engine serpentine belt. After describing the removal, I'll describe the use of the March / Trick Flow AC
delete bracket and the UPR delete bracket. The vehicle the work was performed on has a Vortech supercharger installed.
This effects the belt routing and replacement belt length in comparison to a natural aspirated engine, but it does not effect
how each of the AC delete kits themselves are installed. The Vortech I have installed uses a dual belt set up. This means
the supercharger uses a second belt that runs from the crank pulley to the supercharger. Some of the earlier Paxton
superchargers use one belt to run the supercharger and engine accessories. I'm unfamiliar with the routing of the Paxton
single belt set ups.
The following pulley's are currently installed on the subject vehicle:
The belt wraps about half way around the pulley and the stock pulley is a little larger.)
Air Conditioning Removal:
The first thing to do is discharge the air conditioning unit. As a responsible adult, the
right thing to do is have it professionally discharged so that shop can make money
on whatever freon you have left in your system.... If your system has been dead for
awhile from leaks you'll probably be fine. Just note that the system is pressurized
and precautions should be taken when disassembling the lines. If there is any freon
left in the system your lines will get very cold during the release and you don't want
it in your eyes. The photo shows the low pressure port mounting location on the
Compressor. You can depress the valve to make sure the lines are no longer
pressurized, however, still take precautions when unbolting the lines just in case.
Remove the engine accessory belt and supercharger
belt if equipped. The stock tensioner is spring based
and can be moved away from the belt using a pry bar or
18mm socket and wrench. Note the belt routing prior to
removal and remove the belt. The diagram is of the
stock belt routing and the other side photo is of the
stock configuration without the crank or water pump
pulley.
Remove the engine fan shroud and fan blade. The fan shroud is held on by two bolts or screws on top of the radiator edge
and slip fit style brackets at the bottom. The fan blade is held on by four bolts at the end of the water pump. You may need
a pry bar to help hold the pump shaft from turning. Depending on your setup, you may be able to loosen these bolts prior to
removing the engine belt, using the grip of the engine belt as the pump shaft holder. Disconnect the overflow hose from the
underside of the radiator cap edge and stuff it into the top side hole in the overflow bottle. This will prevent the overflow
fluid from pouring out onto the floor when removed. Disconnect the wire harness at the top of the overflow bottle. Once
the bolts, harness, and hose are removed, the fan blade and shroud will simply pull straight up and out.
The next step is to gain access to the Condenser. This requires you to
remove the two front radiator hold down brackets on the front core support.
The brackets hold the radiator down at each end of the unit. The bottom of
the radiator merely sits on rubber cushions. Depending on your radiator
and available room, you may be able to just lean the radiator forward to
gain access to the bolts for the Condenser bracket. If not, you may need to
drain a portion of the radiator to remove the upper radiator hose to move
it forward. The radiator drain is located on the passenger side of the
radiator near the bottom. (Lefty loosey, righty tighty on the valve.
Remember you're in front of the vehicle looking at it backwards).
Prior to the actual removal of the Condenser we'll disconnect the hard lines
on the passenger side that connect the unit to the compressor and
evaporator.
Continue to page 2 (still under construction)
Whether your air conditioner is no longer functioning or
you want to drop extra weight from your car, there
comes a time when you may consider removing the air
conditioning system. Pictured are the main components
of the air conditioning system that will be removed.
Removal of these items is relatively easy, and for those
concerned, disconnecting the electrical connector from
the compressor will not create a engine code (87-93).
The following components are:
- Condenser
- Compressor
- Lines to the Compressor and Accumulator
- Brackets to hold the Condenser
- Bracket to hold the Accumulator-Dryer
- Accumulator-Dryer
In removing the AC Compressor, you will need to find a way to re-route the engine accessory belt and it may be necessary
to purchase a new engine serpentine belt. After describing the removal, I'll describe the use of the March / Trick Flow AC
delete bracket and the UPR delete bracket. The vehicle the work was performed on has a Vortech supercharger installed.
This effects the belt routing and replacement belt length in comparison to a natural aspirated engine, but it does not effect
how each of the AC delete kits themselves are installed. The Vortech I have installed uses a dual belt set up. This means
the supercharger uses a second belt that runs from the crank pulley to the supercharger. Some of the earlier Paxton
superchargers use one belt to run the supercharger and engine accessories. I'm unfamiliar with the routing of the Paxton
single belt set ups.
The following pulley's are currently installed on the subject vehicle:
- Stock Vortech crank pulley (no change in crank diameter for the engine accessories).
- Stock alternator pulley
- Stock smog pump pulley
- Stock power steering pump pulley
- 1993 Cobra R water pump pulley
The belt wraps about half way around the pulley and the stock pulley is a little larger.)
- Stock belt tensioner
Air Conditioning Removal:
The first thing to do is discharge the air conditioning unit. As a responsible adult, the
right thing to do is have it professionally discharged so that shop can make money
on whatever freon you have left in your system.... If your system has been dead for
awhile from leaks you'll probably be fine. Just note that the system is pressurized
and precautions should be taken when disassembling the lines. If there is any freon
left in the system your lines will get very cold during the release and you don't want
it in your eyes. The photo shows the low pressure port mounting location on the
Compressor. You can depress the valve to make sure the lines are no longer
pressurized, however, still take precautions when unbolting the lines just in case.
Remove the engine accessory belt and supercharger
belt if equipped. The stock tensioner is spring based
and can be moved away from the belt using a pry bar or
18mm socket and wrench. Note the belt routing prior to
removal and remove the belt. The diagram is of the
stock belt routing and the other side photo is of the
stock configuration without the crank or water pump
pulley.
Remove the engine fan shroud and fan blade. The fan shroud is held on by two bolts or screws on top of the radiator edge
and slip fit style brackets at the bottom. The fan blade is held on by four bolts at the end of the water pump. You may need
a pry bar to help hold the pump shaft from turning. Depending on your setup, you may be able to loosen these bolts prior to
removing the engine belt, using the grip of the engine belt as the pump shaft holder. Disconnect the overflow hose from the
underside of the radiator cap edge and stuff it into the top side hole in the overflow bottle. This will prevent the overflow
fluid from pouring out onto the floor when removed. Disconnect the wire harness at the top of the overflow bottle. Once
the bolts, harness, and hose are removed, the fan blade and shroud will simply pull straight up and out.
The next step is to gain access to the Condenser. This requires you to
remove the two front radiator hold down brackets on the front core support.
The brackets hold the radiator down at each end of the unit. The bottom of
the radiator merely sits on rubber cushions. Depending on your radiator
and available room, you may be able to just lean the radiator forward to
gain access to the bolts for the Condenser bracket. If not, you may need to
drain a portion of the radiator to remove the upper radiator hose to move
it forward. The radiator drain is located on the passenger side of the
radiator near the bottom. (Lefty loosey, righty tighty on the valve.
Remember you're in front of the vehicle looking at it backwards).
Prior to the actual removal of the Condenser we'll disconnect the hard lines
on the passenger side that connect the unit to the compressor and
evaporator.
Continue to page 2 (still under construction)
